1 How to Succeed in store
2 Bin Selection
3 Digit POS - Code List
4 Responses to declines smart card.
5 Tutorial Carding in Store
6 Full Specification
1 - How to Succeed in store
In the store, the art of using counterfeit credit cards to obtain profit from mercadoriaa Store. This article is for education only to make knowledge and higher earnings.
/ Tips and Tricks /
Remember, "is this your card", this is the number one rule. You must convince yourself that this is your card. being paranoid, scared, or nervous is a perfect way to be arrested and alert an officer or employee of a store. you must appear as the common client, just as if you were going to buy something legitimate. is now 2009, the days of evictions work for weeks without a problem are not that common. banks are becoming safer and pushing new methods of fraud tracing all the time.
when you go out to shop, card that can go two ways. you can succeed or fail. if you succeed you will probably be out of the store without handcuffs and some shit free hand. if you fail, you may have a fall, call authentication, or maybe in the back of the police car.
1. Keep security in yourself:
Personal safety is the most important thing about the pull of these operations. be yourself, calm voice, do not even say the word stole / steal / stolen / jacked / cut at the store. you never know who is listening to you! to park away from the store, Walmart has cameras outside and can see your card. you may think that you're gone, but if the bank goes after the FBI will see you damn sure that feed from the camera.
do not be afraid to talk to employees about the products, or anything! if you are too shy, then maybe you should work taking him out, being friendly with the employee before the grand theft makes a huge difference. if you choose an older woman, have a stupid question out there such as "How has your day been" or "have been busy?". maybe a young guy, "I went to a party last night and to porrado". look stupid? well, I'll tell you first hand, it is not, it works.
Do not ask questions about things you do not wanna know.
Do not keep looking back. keep your head straight, do not laugh for no reason, and most importantly, do not look directly into a camera. a cell phone can be handy or maybe you can take a look at your product before it arrives.
b. the "theft"
this is the most important part of carding, theft. this is where it goes down. if you have to deliver the card, go for it. as well as the clerk swipes pull the hand out trick. put your hand over the registration act like you want the card back and most of the time they give back. if not, then ask. you want, you need, you need the card back. his impressions are there, so you better get it. if you pass me, a good trick is to steal it and put it out ASAP. not quick to where your going almost 400 mph, but you get the picture. that makes the employee feel free to ask to see the card, compare signatures, whatever. all mind games here.
c. the "answer"
you can get many results after the theft, here we go.
you did it, a sign that electronic screen or receipt and you're on your way. get out and get out of there.
your cards are fucked. nor was it too high or perhaps a pick up. Never an official suspect a stolen card, so I do not know what to suggest. delivered a second card or if you do not have one, ask where is an atm and say you will be back and just hang out.
s uncles and he told you to buy it, perhaps?
4. "Where to go"
Security is a big problem. I will not tell you all to stay away from malls because I shop there, but never return once you've done it, although people walking, but most often they are looking for lifters Store. they have no reason to suspect that unless your knocking out all the stores there and a lot of people. anyone with experience instore know about the last 4 digits of the card. some POS terminals to the employee type them in if they do not match is usually ok. tell them that the bank is sending you a new card and you're sorry. you assumed you can still use it. Radio Shack, Circuit City, the best theme, hot buy, Office Depot (some), making the last four. do not go there unless you spent money on matching plastic. are good places to hit stores within a square where there are basically no security beyond LE patrolling the area which is usually good. Gas stations are easy but can kill the bins in some cases. pay at the pump is a bad idea. i only recommend it if you were fucking broke and needed gas to more than carding. no fucking gas anywhere with cameras. next thing you know is that you carded a new computer only to have busted a $ 20 gas.
2 Selection BIN
So your trying to do their best instore, your getting what you think is shitty dumps, or just starting ..
For whatever your reason for reading this, your instore all starts with you. Some will be very sad when they hear that there is no magic way to find a big box, and when you find those big boxes chances are the offer is limited and you have to go for new. The only way to maintain their high rate of success is doing a lot of research for the bank in wich you are looking to buy boxes.
1. Find Local Bins
Okay, so this is where a lot of people are confused. It nessceary use a bin location in most cases succeed. You see all banks have meathods fraud detection to keep there users safe. Some more sophisticated than others, especially in banks in general are looking for spending patterns and location. What I mean is if the owner of the deposit, only uses card there in Kentucky, and you try to use it in New York, this will raise a big flag to the bank. So we have to find boxes which are local to our area wich will work.
Now your saying, ok so how do I do that? Here are some great meathods:
A. Look in your wallet! This is great because you know exactly how your dump will perform. If you can go buy a lappy 4K without any problem, it is possible that this bin will run the same! But sometimes not, and I'll go into more detail a lil later about it.
B. Search for a list of local banks. Google is your friend even while searching for instoring boxes! Try this in Google "Credit Cooperatives Kentucky" I bet you'll find a page with a list of more local credit unions in your state, and an interesting link there! Now, take your list of bin [avaliable this forum] and find the numbers that bin corispond their local credit unions. Make a list of this and save it. Would use it later!
C. Old CVV or DC! Ok so I think a lot of people do not know this, a number BIN not only tells you what database it belongs, but where it is located. So if bin 414705 is owned by a person in New York, then over all people that bin is located there aswell! So go find some old cc, or buy new and search boxes as you can find from your state. Add to your list, make sure to include the name of the bank, and not just the BIN number.
Now that you've made this list hudge boxes you sure are local to you, because you followed to a T. tips User123 Now the fun part! You should research each bin extensivly, I want you to go to websites and find out as much as you can about the boxes. Here are some things you want to search:
A. Credit Limits Very High! Banks that offer huge limits, will give you a better success. This is because with a limit of 100K, 2K at a single blow is not very
B. Credit Unions, while there boxes are mostly hard to find, have less security!
C. Look for banks wich offer intrest Very low / no intrest and other rewards for spending money. If a user chooses a bank intrest low / no intrest and other rewards that will probably choose this bank becasue they are actually going to be using the card. The more activity on the card the less likely the card will be checked, as I said earlier, banks seek patterns. One thing that will cause a decline or CFA is the cardholder's card is not used for one year and is suddenly trying to spend 2K. This is not the standard of ordinary users, and will cause a red flag. So to summarize, boxes wich has more activity, work best.
You can find a lot of it out there just to visit the website, or if you are really in trouble and a bank looks promising, but do not post information, call them! They will be more than happy to tell you all about them, use common sense and do not ask stupid questions. Be sure to play the role of a client unless you want to hang.
A. So you had a dump from the 10 you bought the same bin run great, but the rest sucked. Look at the numbers, try to buy only what bin expries the same year as that werked, so it expired in 2010, trying to get some of the same. Look at the number 7 if 7/1 are 4325679 and none of the others that have sucked the number 7, buy the ones that do.
B. Stay away of Federal Credit Unions, in my experience, they suck ..
C. All bins can run diffrent, some that you should use for a big hit. And that's all you have. Some if you buy a few small things, and then do a big blow will work just fine. Some of you will buy something small and their dead. You should try it, once you find dumpsters looking promising, if not they werking how you think they should try buying meathods diffrent.
Most deposits D. will only work for a blow BIG!
E. Time of year effects dumps, big spending during the holidays, dumps amazing work. This is because card users are active, the banks expect that users are spending.
Providers F. with new bases are better, it means that the cards are more active lately.
G. Banks Small almost always work better than the big banks, cardholders means less chances of getting active cards are better.
3 Digit POS - Code List
00 Approved authorization / transaction
02 Refer to the card issuer
03 code division Invalid
05 Do not honor
06 Another error
08 Approved honor with ID
10 standard calling
11 Approved VIP approval
12 Transaction Type Invalid
13 Bad amount
14 number of invalid credit card
15 fraud called Standard Low
16 Mean Standard call fraud
17 fraud called high standard
18 Standard service fraud call unavailable
19 Re-enter transaction
20 Low Credit fraud floor
21 Credit Fraud Middle ground
22 Credit fraud floor high
23 Credit Fraud ground service unavailable
24 No Approved Validated
25 None Verified Approved
26 No pre-approved, outstanding
27 No reason to refuse Decline Cust.
28 received and stored None Approved
29 No Auth provided approved
30 invalid data field
31 applications received No Approved
Alert Approved None 32 BIN
33 card has expired
34 Approved Approved None Partial
Fix Error 35 Value Zero
36 Bad Auth Error Fix full amount
37 Invalid Secure Payment Data Error Fix
38 Merchant not MC SecureCode Enabled Call Decline
40 requested function is not supported
41 lost / stolen
43 card stolen
50 Positive ID
52 Processor decline
58 transaction type is not allowed
59 AVS Soft
60 Not honoring fraud Low
Not honoring 61 Middle fraud
Not honoring 62 high fraud
63 Not honoring service unavailable Fraud
64 CVV2 failure
65 Security Code Invalid
66 Another error
68 number of invalid credit card
69 card does not support the method of payment
71 No account
72 Invalid code institution
73 unauthorized user
74 invalid card expired
75 Bad amount
77 Bad amount
78 Missing data companion
79 Invalid Merchant
80 invalid method of payment for the division
Low fraud 81 Call
82 Middle fraud call
Call 83 high fraud
84 Fraud call service unavailable
85 Doubling the number of order
86 Auth down, recycle auth.
87 currency invalid
Invalid card 88 P-3
89 floor Credit
Low fraud 91 Approved
Medium fraud 92 Approved
93 Approved high fraud
Fraud service unavailable 94 Approved
Fix Error 95 Invalid Data Type
Registry Fix 96 Invalid Sequence Error
97 Percentages do not total 100 Error Fix
98 Issuer unavailable
99 No response from host
Payments A1 total error does not correct Order
A2 Order Fix Bad Mistake number
A3 closed FPO wait Error
A4 FPO Call not allowed error
A5 Value Auth Error Fix wrong
A6 Fix error Illegal Action
A8 Invalid Start Date Error Fix
A9 Edition Fix invalid error number
B1 Error Fix Invalid Transaction Type
Not in Decline B5 Fix file
B7 Decline Cust fraud.
B8 Bad Debt Decline Cust.
B9 In Decline Cust Negative File.
C1 Cust Decline Invalid Issuer.
C2 Decline Fix Invalid Response Code
C3 Pin excessive Try Decline Cust.
C4 During Limit Decline Cust.
C5 During Cust Freq Limit Decline.
C6 During Sav Decline Cust limit.
C7 Over Sav Decline Cust Freq.
C8 Over Credit Limit Decline Cust.
C9 on credit Decline Cust Freq.
D1 To Fix invalid credit Decline
D2 Fix invalid for Decline Debit
D3 Rev Exceed Withdrawal Decline Cust.
D4 A Limit Purchases Decline Cust.
D5 In Decline Cust Negative File.
D6 Fix Decline Changed Field
Insufficient funds D7 Decline Cust.
D8 encrypted data Fix Bad Decline
D9 Fix Decline Altered Data
Fix Decline E3 Invalid Prefix
E4 Decline Fix invalid Institution
E5 Decline Fix invalid Holder
E6 BIN Fix Decline Block
No stored E7 Approved
E8 Invalid Routing Transit Number Error Fix
E9 Unknown Error Fix Routing Transit Number
Error correction F1 Missing Name
F2 Fix Error Invalid Account Type
Account Closed Cust F3 error.
F4 No Account / Unable to locate Error Fix
F5 Error Cust Account holder deceased.
F6 Error Cust deceased beneficiary.
Cust Account F7 Error frozen.
Customer F8 Opt Out Cust error.
F9 error ACH Cust non-participant.
G1 no error note Pre-Fix
G2 Fix address error
G3 Fix Error Invalid Account Number
G4 Authorization Revoked by Consumer Cust error.
Customer Advises Not Authorized G5 Cust error.
G6 invalid CECP Action Fix Error Code
G7 Account Error Fix Invalid Format
G8 Bad Account Number Error Fix data
G9 no decline Capture N / A
In H1 function decline credit N / A
H2 not function decline Debit N / A
Rev H3 Exceed Withdrawal Decline Cust.
H4 Changed Field Decline N / A
H5 Terminal are not owned Decline N / A
H6 Decline Fix invalid time
H7 Fix Decline Invalid Data
H8 Invalid Terminal Decline Fix Number
H9 Decline Fix invalid PIN
No Decline J1 Fix manual key
J2 unsigned Fix in Decline
Try J3 Pin excessive Decline Cust.
J4 not Fix Decline DDA
J5 Not Fix SAV Decline
J6 Decline Cust excess DDA.
J7 Excess DDA Decline Cust FREQ.
J8 Decline Cust excess SAV.
J9 Excess SAV Decline Cust FREQ.
K1 Decline Cust excess cards.
K2 Excess Customer Card Decline Freq.
K3 Futures Decline Reserved N / A
K4 Decline Closing Reserved N / A
K5 Decline Cust numb.
K6 Decline Cust NSF.
K7 Future RD Six Decline N / A
K8 Future RD Seven Decline N / A
K9 Transaction Code Fix Decline Conflict
L1 Wait Decline In Progress
Forward error process L2 is not available
L3 Fix invalid error Expiration
L4 Fix invalid error effectively
Fix Decline L5 Invalid Issuer
L6 Tran not allowed to Decline Cust cardholder.
L7 Unable to determine network call routing error
L8 call system fault error
L9 database called Error Error
4 Responses to declines smart card.
Intelligent answers to falls
"This happened to me once before i can be about my limit for the day ... well that gives me a back (right stick your hand out to pressure them psychologically to return it) and try a this "(get card back)" well I think my wife / husband / girlfriend / boyfriend / friends monkeys uncles cousin has it. Allow five minutes for this one ill be back.
"I had the same problem earlier and when I called they said it has something to do with the letters they sent out when I got my ... I do not have another, but said it depended on the type of terminal, the retailer uses .. bad .. just wait until I get the new card and return later (breathing .. "god damn fucking piece of shit HELL") (smile and leave)
"You got to be kidding me! After all the problems ive been through cards with people convicted of credit and now this again! Just give me the damn plate back im going to cancel the damn thing and then ill be back dammit ( sound angry and drug use a lot) "
4. Paranoid and bipolar
"OH NO! Someone is using my card! WHAT OH MY GOD I will do! GIMME BACK THAT is probably one of your employees ANYWAY! OH NO OH NO OH NO I SAW A SHOW ON CNN ABOUT THIS KIND OF THING MY CREDIT IS GOING to be ruined!
"Son of a bitch ... How dare you say my card has to be checked I know there? S FUCKING sufficient credit card on GOD DAMN IM A PIECE doctor you impotent dog shit ... I'll have your you work for this pre pubescent tiny insignificant FUCK! GIMME THAT GOD DAMNED CARD before I shove it up your ass! something is ALWAYS ... ALWAYS ... if not the Porsche launch a stick of his Mercedes leaking oil .. . was his wife not FUCKING BOY POOL his wife fucking BROTHER MY GOD DAMNED WORTHLESS! Fuck ... Just give me THAT CARD BACK AND eat a dick ... SHIT!!
"Well that would probably be the credit card company saying that the card is stolen bro ... I'm surprised its lasted so long .. haha call them and see what they say .. Tell them left or some shit ... but the person who owns this card is up shit creek without a raft to float on if you know what I mean ... haha Well, I guess ill be back when I get another .. oh no .. I do not want him back just keep that dog leave it for some dumbass to find and try to use it ... he will not be surprised boy.
5 Carding in Store
So you're interested in trying out instore carding? Instore carding is one of the fastest ways to get money. But you have to keep your head in
straight for it. As you should in each operation you go out to do. This tutorial will tell you the pros and cons of instore carding. Feel free to
distrobute this as much as you want.
Youre obviously reading this because you want A. Wondering how to instore card or B. Want to see if you can find anything you are not aware.
For people who chose A. You must have at least some prior knowledge of credit cards before trying instoring. If you do not that's ok too, just keep
read the tutorial and the end of it, you should be fine. The most important thing about instore carding is how you * Take * part of identity
* Playinig you like. If you are going into a store looking out with $ 3-5k worth of electronics dressed in your normal clothing and being nervous,
think again. You need to dress and act like a person who looks like they could buy these items any day of the week. The first time that you are going
be nervous ofcourse, its natural to be nervous the first few times. But with time and past experiences to look back, it only gets easier as you go
Dressing the part:
This should come naturally to most people out there. To buy something expensive that you need to make it look like you can buy these items along with acting
as you can (below). For your first operation i suggest you should include entering any of the below clothing stores and buy a reasonable amount
quality clothes. I can not emphasize enough how quality plays a role in dressing up. Buy a sweater in walmart and a sweater in banana republic could
determine the difference between going out with your goods or running out of the store. Along with clothing you may want to buy some jewelry or very
Watch high price. If a box suspicion that something is going on, seeing some classy jewelry or a watch can also help reduce suspicion.
Clothing stores are usually never uptight with purchases of clothing is why I suggest going there first to get some quality clothes. You can be
Dress as you want in there and it will not matter. When you buy new clothes, put them on in a bathroom and then continue their activities in a larger
Acting the part:
This area will come hard for some but easier for others. Prepare yourself before going with the things you could say. If you are going into a store to
buy smaller items ($ 800 and below), this is usually not difficult to accomplish. But for larger items you should act as if you can afford these items at any
time of day. Acting stuck in a sense can do this. Other than that, dressing the part is another area that helps you present as a
person of wealth.
Before you go out there and start instoring you will need the following items.
Reader / card writer - Youre going to have to (in most cases) need a card reader / card writer to write new dumps on your cards. Especially if you want to re encode
their cards and leave. The only case where you do not need it if you were buying plastic from a vendor who offers to encode the deposits for you. To
a reader / writer I recommend the MSR-206. It is the most popular encoder out there. You can buy them from
Price: $ 200 $ 640
Computer / Laptop (Preferred) - To be able to encode their deposits (later) first you need a computer to connect your card encoder up. Using a desktop
is good, but if you get into any trouble with their garbage dumps that will happen, you will have no way to re-encode your plastic. You will have to drive
home and re encode there. But if you have a laptop, you can bring your MSR with you and just plug it and re-encode while you are in your car. Doing this
will save you gas and time. Price: U.S. $ 600 to $ 2400
Power Inverter - This is a very useful tool that you are going to need for this and you will probably find yourself using all kinds of other things. The
MSR requires a power source for a purchase or design thereof. If your laptop battery gets low aswell which sometimes happen just hook it apart. I
I found a very good at BestBuy for $ 80. It covers up to 800 watts (400 watts each plug). Price: $ 80
Plastic - I saw all sorts of ways to obtain plastic. Stealing others and those to buy them from a supplier. You do not want to steal
anyones credit cards and start using those. And you do not want to re encode your own credit cards. I'm sure it makes sense to do it, but over time, if you
start using your own credit card, credit card companies are going to see the name being used and will surely contact you about these occurrences. The
best bet is to buy plastic from a supplier. Think about that too. When buying plastic, get at least 2 cards with the same name as its novelty. It will save
money on new novelties and give you a greater chance to get out with your merchandise.
Dumps - the most important item in this entire operation. What would you do without dumps? Nothing that's what. Now, depending on what you're
thinking of going out for your first op will determine how much you will need to spend in landfills. I would not worry about spending now. So
as your op is over you will see that you have done well their money back from this.
Portfolio - Some people may think that putting the plastic and novelty in your own wallet is not a bad idea. But the truth is that it is probably one of
major problems that could arise if anything was to happen. Keeping your false information and separate your real information is a necessity. If you have
any personal information to contact you when carding I would suggest dropping it off in your car.
Optional items -
Fake ID - highly recommended, but is not always necessary. Most of the time boxes for large purchases will ask for an ID that corresponds to
plastic. There are many providers out there who provide a novelty service that will meet your needs. Getting a state that is semi close to you is ideal
Anonymous Phone - This is optional to have, I used dumps seller who deposits checks before shipping so that all are valid. Deposits its working 8/10 times on average. So if a card does not work, I simply hand them another card with an excuse of why the card was not working. If you are
passing through any provider you should buy a Tracfone and find a dealer who will phone verify their deposits before you go
in a store. When using a phone merchant there are two forms of authorization card. Some people think that charging $ 1 or $ 1.50 on the card will not be
kill the card as many companies use a rate of $ 1 or $ 1.50 as a pre-authorization to check and see if the card is valid. Others prefer charging a random
higher amount to make it look like a legal purchase. Anyway, it's up to you how you would want to check it.
Serial to USB Converter - smaller laptops may not come with a serial port to connect to your encoder. If this is the case, you will need to purchase a
these. Price: $ 15 - $ 25
Newskin Bandaid Liquid - You might be asking yourself "What would I do with it?". Well, if you really want to be protective you can put some newskin
at your finger tips so no traces of fingerprints appears the plastic if any misfortune was to happen.
Planning what you are going to buy before buying it would be a good thing to do. It saves you time to think what you need or may need.
Also think about it. If you're main goal is to get a hefty sum of money, you should checkout ebay to see what sells for a high percentage. Normally this
cards to popular stores get massive amounts back because they are like cash. But just check ebay.
If you are going to make an instore op for your own personal pleasure, then you really do not need to make a list because you already know what you want
to arrive. Or you can look around the store and choose what you want.
Taking care of business:
Before hand I always like to go to the bathroom. This makes the situation a little more carding easier if you get nervous. JediMasterC brought this on aswell.
You do not want to get caught and be remembered as the kid who shit his pants. That is, if you get caught, odds are you will not if you follow these
Choose a location to instore is not very difficult. The Internet has a vast amount of websites that have store locators. So find your subject mall or store
and do a search to see what is around you. Here is a very important rule to follow. Do not do anything which you live. Or in a more common place
la. Dont shit where you live. Find a store that's at least one good hour and a half drive away from you and is at least two cities.
Some people opt to use fake license plates when entering your destination for carding just to add an extra level of safety in case of a camera
get the car going away. This is ofcourse optional, but it does not hurt to put in more security. Just do not speed away or anything that could make it
Parking - When parking your car, make sure you park out so no camera will catch your license plate. It will be worth the extra walk when you are walking
with their merchandise.
So now you have everything you need to start. Are you prepared for the best and the worst situations to come.
The first time you go out you should expect some nervousness to come even before entering one of the stores listed below. The most important thing to do
is to remain calm and act natural. The more suspicious you act, the more cash will suspect something is up. I do not recommend taking any medicine
or alcohol to calm down. You need to look calm and natural while alert to your atmosphere at the same time.
[Color = blackImportant anatomy of a dump:
There is a more detailed version of this on PC. But for now, you just need to know this information to get started.
B41111111111111111111 ^ LASTNAME / FIRSTNAME ^ 060910100 000000000000000000
41111111111111111111 = 0609101000000000000000000000
B - Identifies to the POS system that your card is a bank card
4111111111111111 - Credit Card Number
Last Name - Surname of cardholder
/ - Seperater
Last Name - Name of cardholder
06 - Year experation
09 - Month experation
101 & Beyond - Bank data
Now some vendors will only sell the second track. So that leaves you with trying to figure out how to write TRACK1. Most stores do not check TRACK1 so
is not the most important thing. But to be safe I always include TRACK1. Here is an example of what you need to do. It is very easy.
4111111111111111 = 060910100000000000000
If you havent noticed, track2 in most cases is as TRACK1. To start TRACK1, add a B indeicate your card from a bank.
B4111111111111111 = 060910100000000000000
So you're going to want to change to a =
^ Lastname / firstname ^.
B4111111111111111 ^ LASTNAME / FIRSTNAME ^ 0609101000000 00000000
And finally, youre going to add six zeros at the end of the dump.
B4111111111111111 ^ LASTNAME / FIRSTNAME ^ 0609101000000 00000000000000
And that's your eviction. As I said it is not difficult to create TRACK1 have track2 only.
Software to encode the dumps - I recommend TheJerms software. It is very self-explanatory. [/ Color]
Types of bins:
People ask me all the time about using generated deposits and if they are good. I would not use generated dumps. Most often they only work properly
with a bin right. And there is a success rate of 15% less than using other types of deposits. You can also use quality dumps in your locations you choose
that people will not remember you instead of having errors come up and your face gets noticed more easily.
The best quality dump you will probably find dumps are slim. Skimmed dumps mean that the actual card was swiped on a portable Mag Stripe Reader.
Therefore, using these you know you will have all the correct information to TRACK1 and track2.
Hacked dumps are usually taken from databases, you guessed it, hackers. The quality on these are the normal quality thats out there.
Dump types and limits:
I'll only discuss so far visa, discover dump limits and a word Amex dumps as I have not encountered any use with mastercard dumps.
Visa Classic - These types of deposits are usually cheaper than buying from a vendor. I heard that on average, you can get $ 500 for these types of deposits.
But I have been pulled at least $ 800 on them. Visa classics have a balance limit of $ 500 to $ 3,500. Although most have been able to get out of a
classic is only $ 2,600 before an error occurs.
Visa Gold - One step above the classic, These limits start at $ 3,500 and can double the credit holder good gains. With them, you can do more
amounts of purchases.
Visa Platinum - Visa Platinum dumpsters are for the larger purchases mainly. On a good day you can withdraw anywhere from $ 3,000 to $ 6,000.
Visa Signature & Business - Signatues say they have no limits. So for us it means that they have the highest limits available. People said they
obtained anywhere from $ 5,000 to $ 20,000 out of these types of deposits.
Discover - I have not used them that much, in my past, but from what I gathered you can get anywhere from $ 1,000 to $ 5,000 on them in a purchase. Use
these deposits for multiple purchases will likely kill the dump before going through one of these limits. Almost all discover cards begin with a
balance of $ 10,000.
Amex - I have not used these dumps. The reason for this is that you need the correct CVN to complete the transaction. It is not embossed, but printed on
plastic. So you can not re-encode Amex dumps. If the CVN is not correct when entered, you will automatically receive a call authorization.
How long dumps last:
This question no one can answer. You may be able to make a good prediction of how long they will last, if you think of the time and the dump type. To
instance. If you have a deposit classic, its 11:30 am, and you make a variety of small (under $ 20) purchases. Odds are you're going to get that card to last a
much more than it is a dump classics making purchases $ 300 at 7:30 PM. Think of the hours of work cardholders. They are usually 9 am to 5 pm. That is, when
your card is idle so to speak.
Advanced dump purchasing:
Until now, if you're reading about dumps. You may know that by purchasing dumps from banks that are closer to your area, there is a greater
success rate on most purchases. Only a few suppliers will offer you to purchase by a certain Bin (first six digits of cc). The Bin determines that the bank
corresponds with the card. Bins to find places to go http://www.hermesbank.net/interchange/ ~ ~ V and seek any bank that has a lot of places in your
field. You can also search for the name of the state and see what comes up with.
Choose your box:
This is probably one of the most fun things to do while instoring. Normally 90% of the time, minorities and younger girls make the best choice for cashing
out. Minorities include, Blacks, Mexicans and Asians if you were wonderings. The reason you want to choose these types because their boxes are
are usually easier to manipulate. In some cases you'll have to use a normal person to withdraw. But try not to make it a habbit.
Interactions with the box:
In order to safely get your items out of the store successfully, you must know how to interact with the box. In order to manipulate them.
When you bring your stuff to the act of normal box. If it is a lot they can say something nice for you to mention the amount of goods
you are buying. Just play with it and make them feel good aswell. If you do not feel comfortable box they will think something is up, if any error
occurs. That sometimes, if you are planning on doing a lot of instore.
Errors and apologies:
As I was saying above, there will be errors now and then. Now, most are very easy to talk your way out of. But in some cases you are going to need
to find out when you try to get your novelty and card and just run. This probably will not happen if you are only doing this a few times, but for people
who are planning to do this more often, it is more likely to happen at least once. I have listed below some common mistakes and how to deal with them.
Optional Pre excuse - JediMasterC brought this excuse method to a lot of people's attention and is a very good idea in most cases. Making the box
I think now that the transaction will not go through so they are not surprised by the error, which makes handling the situation much easier. Say
something as simple as * I hope I have enough to cover this * or anything around those terms is good.
Declined - Once you spend and spend on a deposit of good there has to be an end. Usually with dumps that will not die This is the final step
complete it. Hope you have another card with you to deliver the cash. If you do not that's fine too.
If you have another card - Oh, I thought it was going to happen. Here try my other card.
If you do not have another card - I'll be back. I'm going to go get my checkbook / go to the ATM.
Call Authorization - This can be tricky if you do not have the right box. This is something you do not want the box to do. A call to
Authorization is basically storing call the bank or the stores authorization center in order to confirm that the actual cardholder making the
purchase. If this happens just stay calm.
If you have another card - I do not have much time, I will call the bank later. Try my other card.
If you do not have another card - I do not have much time for this evil called my bank and come back tomorrow.
If they persist in making the call, put your hand out as if they were going to give her back plastic. Doing so tends to put a little pressure on the
box as to whether or not to give the card back to you. They usually will put the card back in your hands.
Not Honor - This will happen from time to time and is probably the easiest to overcome. The boxes sometimes, just ask if you have other
If you have another card - Hand them the card and say you will call the bank about it.
If you do not have another card - Oh, I'll call my bank about that tomorrow (then leave)
These are the most common problems you will encounter. Of course there are more error codes. There are about 50 of them. But by the time you manage
to talk to those you will have enough experience to speak of the rest.
Selling your items:
There are a lot of ways to liquidate your items. The best way to do this is on ebay. I will not go into a great description, because
then this tutorial would change the way you sell your items or scam on ebay. You can buy an account from a vendor or get a B & M bank account and
create your own. I do not suggest using your own eBay account. A lot of people in the past and even if a good amount havent been caught, you do not
want to be that small percentage that do.
Storing your money:
Here is another area that can be done in many ways. I will tell you not to put money in your bank account legally. If you were thinking that,
you should take a minute and think again. You can store your money in a bank account electronic service such as egold, or webmoney. Or if you want
more control over your money, you could keep it in a safe well hidden. Using an electronic bank account instead has a higher rate of security. As if
something was going to happen to you involving LE, odds are you will not find your information for that account. Which means they would not have access to their
funds because they do not know it exists.
Thank you for taking your time to read this tutorial. I hope it was worth your time! I also hope that everyone who is inspired by this response with any
words or issues they would like to say. Good luck to you all!
Sellers who do not type last 4:
Abercrombie & Fitch
* Almost every clothing store
Barnes and Noble
Bath and Body Works
Bed Bath and Beyond
Bose Factory Store / Exposure
Burlington Coat Factory
Every gas station (pay at the pump) * Excluding Shell
FYE * (about 4 last type)
Home Depot (self swipe)
Journeys * (about 4 last type)
Kmart (self swipe)
Lowe (self swipe)
Linens and Things
Pier One Imports
Staples * (about 4 latter kind, some not)
Target (auto theft sometimes gives signature)
Toys R Us
Walmart (self swipe but most check sig)
* Almost all major restaraunts.
Stores that type last 4:
Circuit City (Uses AVS aswell)
Cell Phone Services
OfficeMax (Types CVV on back of card)
Codes of Commerce:
01 See the card issuer
02 Refer to card issuer, special condition
03 Invalid Merchant
Take 04 card
05 Do not honor
07 Pick Up card, special condition
08 Honor with identification
09 Request in progress
10 Approval for partial amount
11 Approved VIP
12 Invalid Transaction
13 Invalid value
14 Invalid card number
19 Re-enter transaction
21 No action taken
30 Error Format
41 lost card Lift
Take 43 stolen card
51 non-sufficient funds
52 does not have a current account
53 No savings account
54 cards expired
55 Pin incorrect
57 Transaction not permitted to cardholder
58 Transaction not allowed for merchant
61 exceeds the amount withdrawn
62 Restricted card
63 Security Breach
65 Activity count limit exceeded
75 Pin tries exceeded
76 Unable to locate previous
77 inconsistent with the original
78 No account
80 Invalid transaction date
81 Cryptographic PIN error
84 time pre-authorization for large
86 Can not verify PIN
89 MAC error
91 Issuer unavailable
92 Invalid receiving institution ID
93 Transaction violates law
94 Duplicate transaction
96 system malfunction
6 Full Specification
TRACK2 complete specification
SS: Start Sentinel. 1 character:,.
PAN: Primary Account Number. Up to 19 digits:
According to the account numbering scheme in ISO 7812.
It consists of the following parts:
IIN: Issuer Identification Number. Up to 6 digits:
It consists of the following parts:
MII: Handle large industry. Up to 2 digits:
0: Reserved for future use by ISO / TC 68.
00: Institutions other than card issuers.
2: Airlines and other future assignments.
3: Travel and entertainment.
4: Banking / Financial.
5: Banking / Financial.
59: Financial institutions not registered by ISO.
6: Merchandising and banking.
8: Telecommunications and other future work.
89: Telecommunications administrations and private companies.
9: Reserved for national use.
II: the identifier of the sender. Up to 5 digits:
Identifies the issuer. In some cases, the first digit indicates the length of IIN or responsibility of assignment outside the ISO. If MII = 9 then the first 3 digits should be the country code (CC).
IAI: Identification of Individual Account. Up to 12 digits:
Assigned by the card issuing institution.
CD: check digit. 1 digit:
Calculated by the Luhn formula for computing modulus 10 "double-add-double" check digit: the value of the couple of alternate (odd) digits from the (first right hand) least significant digit. Then add the individual digits doubled (odd) numbers and even digits of the original number. If the value ending in 0, then the check digit is 0. Otherwise subtract the value of the next highest number ending in 0 (tens complement unit digits). The result is the check character. Example: If the account number without check digit is 1234 5678 9012 344 then (8) + 4 + + 2 + (2) + 0 + (1 + 8) + 8 + (1 + 4) + 6 + (1 + 0) + 4 + + 2 + (2) = 65, so the check digit is 70-65 = 5 and thus the complete account number is 1234 5678 9012 3445.
MasterCard PAN is variable up to 16 digits and VISA is 13 or 16 digits, including the check digit.
FS: field separator. 1 character: =.
CC: country code. 3 digits:
Only if PAN starts with 59 (MasterCard).
Country codes are defined in ISO 3166: 724 for Spain, 840 for USA, etc.
ED: Date. 4 digits: YYMM.
If this field is not used one FS will be in place.
Required by MasterCard and VISA.
SC: Service Code. 3 digits:
Digit 1 (most important): Interchange and technology:
0: Reserved for future use by ISO.
1: Available for international interchange.
2: Available for international exchange and integrated circuit, which must be used for financial transaction when feasible.
3: Reserved for future use by ISO.
4: Reserved for future use by ISO.
5: Available for national interchange, except under bilateral agreement.
6: Available for national interchange, except under bilateral agreement, and integrated circuit, which must be used for financial transaction when feasible.
7: Not available for general interchange, except under bilateral agreement.
8: Reserved for future use by ISO.
2 digits: processing authorization:
0: Transactions are authorized following the normal rules.
1: Reserved for future use by ISO.
2: Transactions are authorized by issuer and should be online.
3: Reserved for future use by ISO.
4: Transactions are authorized by issuer and should be online, except under bilateral agreement.
5: Reserved for future use by ISO.
6: Reserved for future use by ISO.
7: Reserved for future use by ISO.
8: Reserved for future use by ISO.
9: Reserved for future use by ISO.
3 digit (least significant): Range of services and PIN requirements:
0: No restrictions and PIN required.
1: No restrictions.
2: Goods and services only (no cash).
3: ATM only and PIN required.
4: Cash only.
5: Goods and services only (no cash) and PIN required.
6: No restrictions and require PIN when feasible.
7: Goods and services only (no cash) and require PIN when feasible.
8: Reserved for future use by ISO.
9: Reserved for future use by ISO.
If this field is not used a FS will be in place.
Required by MasterCard and VISA.
PVV: offset or PVV (PIN Verification Value). 5 digits:
Required by MasterCard and VISA.
DD: Discretionary data. Rest of characters:
Reserved for proprietary use of card issuer.
ES: End Sentinel. 1 character:.
LRC: Longitude Redundancy Check. 1 character.
; 4123123412341234 = 0905101000543534543?
PAN = 4123123412341234
09 YEARS =
05 MONTHS =
1 = Interchange and technology = "Available for international exchange."
0 = Authorization processing = "Transactions are authorized following the normal rules"
1 = range of services and PIN requirements = "Unrestricted"
PVV = 00054 (this is only the case with some cards!)
3534543 = Discretionary data (only means something to the bank, means something different to each bank is for internal use only)